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The best chemical exfoliant for every skin type

Warum Azelainsäure tatsächlich bei Rosazea hilft Du liest The best chemical exfoliant for every skin type 9 Minuten

Exfoliation as part of a skincare routine is one of the most transformative steps you can do. Nowadays, the variety of products and names of exfoliant can be confusing. How do you know what actually works for you? At Disruptif Beauty, we believe in cutting through the noise with scientific facts and personalised guidance. Let's explore the world of chemical exfoliants and discover which one truly suits your skin type.

First things first: Why exfoliate?

Healthy skin desquamate! Desquamation is the process that new skin cells move up, to the top layer of the stratum corner while old cells shed. This a normal and healthy process that is part of the skin turnover cycle, which should last two to three weeks. Basically, your entire epidermis is freshly new in about seven weeks!

However, this process tend to slow down due to aging, environmental stressors and dehydration, resulting in rough texture, compromised skin barrier, dull skin and even slower cell-turnover. It is a "vicious cycle". 

Enter Chemical Exfoliants

Unlike physical scrubs that manually shred dead skin cells away, chemical exfoliants are acids that will weaken the bonds that hold dead skin cells together, helping your skin to a healthy turnover rate. In a short-term, this process reveals smoother texture, and brighter complexion. In the long run, they can even help tackling pigmentation, acne and collagen production! skin underneath while addressing various skin concerns more effectively and gently than traditional scrubbing methods.

Chemical exfoliants got very popular in the past decade and you can find them in all sorts of products - from cleansers, to toners, serums or masks. The three most common and scientifically proven chemical exfoliants are salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and lactic acid. Each has unique properties that make it suitable for different skin types and concerns.

Salicylic Acid: The Oil-Soluble Problem Solver

Best for: Oily, acne-prone, and combination skin

Salicylic acid stands apart from other face exfoliants because of its oil-soluble nature. This unique characteristic allows it to penetrate deep into pores, making it exceptionally effective for those struggling with congestion, blackheads, and breakouts.

How does it work? Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that not only exfoliates the skin's surface but also works inside the pore itself. It dissolves the sebum and debris that lead to clogged pores and acne formation. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that help calm existing breakouts and reduce redness.

If you have oily or acne-prone skin, a salicylic acid exfoliant should be your first choice. Look for concentrations between 0.5% and 2% in serums or toners.

What to expect: Clearer pores, reduced breakouts, and a more refined skin texture. Many users notice improvements in their skin's clarity within two to four weeks of consistent use.

Our recommendation: If you have oily or acne-prone skin, a salicylic acid exfoliant should be your first choice. Geek & Gorgeous Porefectly Clear Serum

Skintegra Clarion Serum model holding product

Glycolic Acid: The Powerful Skin Renewer

Best for: Combination skin, hyperpigmentation and aging skin

Glycolic acid is the smallest molecule in the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family, which means it can penetrate the skin more deeply than other AHAs. This makes it one of the most effective chemical exfoliants for addressing multiple concerns at once.

The result is brighter, more even-toned skin with improved texture and reduced appearance of fine lines. Glycolic acid also stimulates collagen production and it has shown efficacy tackling hyperpigmentation, making it an excellent anti-aging ingredient.

However, glycolic acid's strength is also what requires caution. It can be irritating for sensitive skin types, and it increases sun sensitivity. If you choose glycolic acid as your face exfoliant, starting with lower concentrations (around 5-8%) is essential, and daily SPF becomes non-negotiable.

What to expect: Visibly brighter skin, faded dark spots, smoother texture, and over time, improvement in fine lines. Results typically become noticeable after four to six weeks of regular use.

Our recommendation: Glycolic Acid can be irritating for sensitive skin types, and it increases sun sensitivity. Start with lower concentrations (around 4-8%) and once your skin tolerates level up with Geek & Gorgeous Smooth Out Exfoliant Toner. Combine with Pestle & Mortar Daily Shield for daily SPF. 

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Lactic Acid: The Hydrating Exfoliant

Best for: Dry, sensitive or aged skin

Lactic acid offers the perfect balance between efficacy and gentleness. As an alpha hydroxy acid derived from milk, it provides effective face exfoliation while simultaneously attracting moisture to the skin. This dual action makes it ideal for those who need exfoliation but can't tolerate stronger options.

How does it work? What sets lactic acid apart is its larger molecular size compared to glycolic acid. This means it penetrates the skin more slowly and works more gently on the surface, reducing the risk of irritation. Despite its gentleness, lactic acid effectively removes dead skin cells, improves skin texture, and addresses hyperpigmentation.

What to expect: Softer, more hydrated skin with improved texture and tone. Unlike some exfoliants that can leave skin feeling tight, lactic acid leaves your complexion comfortable and glowing.

Our recommendation: For those with sensitive or dry skin, lactic acid can be your gateway into face exfoliation. Look for concentrations between 5-10% like in Pestle & Mortar NMF Exfoliant.

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Mandelic Acid: Ideal for acne and sensitive skin

Best for: Sensitive, acne-prone, darker skin tones, and rosacea-prone skin

Mandelic acid, unlike glycolic acid, is a gentle Alpha Hydroxy Acids, offering unique benefits for those who have struggled with other acids. Derived from bitter almonds, it has the largest molecular size in the AHA family, which translates to the slowest and gentlest penetration into the skin.

What makes mandelic acid special is its dual nature. Like salicylic acid, it has mild antibacterial properties that help combat acne-causing bacteria. However, unlike salicylic acid, it works on the skin's surface rather than diving deep into pores, making it ideal for those with sensitive skin who also deal with breakouts. This makes it an excellent face exfoliant for the often-challenging combination of sensitivity and acne.

Mandelic acid is particularly beneficial for individuals with darker skin tones or those prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

What to expect: Gradual improvement in skin texture and tone without irritation. Reduction in mild breakouts and congestion. Fading of dark spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Visible results typically appear after 6-8 weeks of consistent use.

Our recommendation: Mandelic acid is particularly beneficial for individuals with darker skin tones or those prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Geek & Gorgeous is a combination of 5% Mandelic Acid and 1% Salicylic Acid perfect for this. 

Geek & Gorgeous Cheer Up Exfoliant Texture

Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs): The Gentlest Exfoliants

Best for: Extremely sensitive skin, compromised skin barriers, rosacea and eczema-prone skin

Polyhydroxy acids represent the gentlest category of chemical exfoliants. The most common PHAs, gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, have larger molecular structures that penetrate the skin much more slowly than traditional AHAs, resulting in significantly less irritation.

What makes PHAs unique is their triple action. While providing gentle face exfoliation, they simultaneously hydrate the skin like hyaluronic acid and offer antioxidant protection, besides strengthening and repairing skin barrier. 

What to expect: Smoother, more hydrated skin with strengthened barrier function. You should also notice your skin becoming less reactive and more resilient over time. Results typically become visible after 4-6 weeks of consistent use.

Our recommendation: Geek & Gorgeous Calm Down Toner with Gluconolactone and Lactobionic Acid as PHAs.

Choosing Your Chemical Exfoliant: A Personalised Approach

Understanding your skin type is the first step, but your choice of face exfoliant should also consider your specific concerns and goals:

  • If you have combination skin: You might benefit from using a formulation containing salicylic acid and glycolic acid and Skintegra Clarion Serum is a perfect solution. This will address the different needs across your face.
  • If you're new to chemical exfoliants: Start with PHAs. It's the gentlest option and allows your skin to build tolerance to face exfoliation.
  • If pigmentation is your concern: Glycolic acid tends to be most effective for fading dark spots and evening skin tone. If you can't tolerate glycolic acid, lactic acid can help with hyperpigmentation.
  • Do you have rosacea or very sensitive skin? Approach chemical exfoliants with caution. Mandelic Acid or Poly Hydroxy Acids (like Gluconolactone) concentrations may work.
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The Disruptif Beauty Difference

At Disruptif Beauty, we don't believe in one-size-fits-all solutions. While this guide provides recommendations, your skin's unique needs may require a more personalised approach. Our consultation service helps you navigate the world of chemical exfoliants with confidence, ensuring you choose products that align with your skin's actual needs rather than marketing trends.

Remember, the best chemical exfoliant for you is the one that matches your skin type, addresses your concerns, and fits seamlessly into a routine you'll actually maintain. Start with the basics, listen to your skin, and adjust as needed. With the right face exfoliant and proper usage, you're on your way to the radiant, healthy skin you deserve.

Ready to find your perfect chemical exfoliant? Explore our curated selection of science-backed face exfoliants, or book a personalised consultation to receive tailored recommendations for your unique skin journey.